Paris Fashion Week has ended, marking the end of the Spring/Summer 2023 runway presentations, and there’s much to discuss. Upon reflection, New York set the tone for the hefty month, with brands like Luar and No Sesso showcasing bold-shouldered silhouettes; Fendi and LaQuan Smith placing an emphasis on utilitarian codes; Eckhaus Latta and Coach delivering a bevy of sweaters; and Willy Chavarria opting for decadent suiting.
London held the spotlight next, offering up an unprecedented display of design expertise. Among the standout trends, punk design codes hit the runways of Chopova Lowena and Daniel W. Fletcher; maxi skirts became menswear statement pieces for Stefan Cooke and Simone Rocha, and genderless designs commanded collections by JW Anderson and Edward Crutchley.
In Milan, Italian tailoring took center stage, especially for the likes of Gucci, Bottega Veneta, Bally, Jil Sander and GCDS. Embracing contemporary formalwear for the everyday, each of the aforementioned brands (and more) transformed the suit’s once “stuffy” appearance to be modern and refreshed, proving that tailoring is here to stay.
Next, Paris let the fashion world know that androgynous suiting exists at the fore of men’s style. Botter presented formal pieces with heart-shaped lapels, and Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen’s The Row debuted boxy blazers and wide-legged trousers. Additionally, Vivienne Westwood and GmBH revealed punky, rebellious suiting that blended ’80s rave culture with maximalism; and Thom Browne, of course, put men in signature pleated kilts.
Collectively, the Spring/Summer 2023 runways moved fashion forward with contemporary design techniques and refreshed tailoring alike. Below, Hypebeast has rounded up some of the biggest trends from the month.
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Utilitarian codes of ready-to-wear and accessories gear up for next season in the form of strap-happy bags and zip-closure detailing, along with an array of extra pockets on cargo pants, full-zip jackets, windbreakers and backpacks.
From Balenciaga to Givenchy, Fendi’s multi-collab project and Tommy Hilfiger, designers are aiming to free up the hands of consumers, so that we can be outside and enjoy an upcoming Spring/Summer season without fumbling with gadgets or handy distractions.
Fashion as Art
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Several designers opted to turn their designs into full-blown works of art. Loewe, under the creative jurisdiction of Jonathan Anderson, showed multiple ensembles decorated with very realistic centerpieces depicting blossoming flowers alongside a few looks that very literally mimicked the aesthetics of ’90s video games. JW Anderson, the designer’s eponymous label, let the creativity continue to flourish, with designs resembling a prized goldfish bag, a ’90s desktop keyboard, coffee grounds, metal scourers and more. Elsewhere, Coperni took “fashion as art” took to the next level, dousing a naked Bella Hadid in an instant spray-on fabric to create a dress before showgoers’ eyes.
At its core, it’s camp, but on the larger fashion stage, this type of artful approach showcases a designer’s ability to truly think outside the box.
Shimmering Sheer Fabric
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The association of lace being an intimate fabric – along with sheer items like chiffon and organza – has been keenly noted for next season, as these materials have been shown in a barely-there way in various collections.
Brands including Lanvin, Theophilio and Louis Vuitton each featured the trend as a subtle opposition to the pandemic’s doom-and-gloom melancholy that has weighed heavy on consumers (and designers alike) over the past two years. Whether worn under decadent suiting or in a cool manner with button-up shirts or thin tank tops, shimmering sheers will surely glitz up and enliven any of your outings for next season.
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On myriad runways, onlookers saw colors elegantly blend into one another across a diverse array of fabrics. Ferragamo let orange turn to red across a slew of mesh fabrications that composed tops and and buttoned dresses alike; Peter Do turned grey to black on newly-debuted men’s shirting as well as dramatic trench coats and dresses; and Diesel turned white to blue across several denim pieces, among several others.
The soft ombré effect is versatile in nature, and it can virtually be applied to almost any ensemble. Evidently, the soft change in color offers an elegant elevation, without ever taking too much attention away from each designer’s craftsmanship.
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In bold fashion, shoulders have become a focal point for SS23, with brands like Luar, Matty Bovan, AVAVAV and No Sesso turning inward to lead the charge.
After the pandemic placed an unbearable weight on the world’s shoulders, designers have been keen to make witty references to social plights and presented collections that feature exaggerated shoulder pads, extra wide lapels and extremely rounded sleeve units.
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